Saturday, November 25, 2006

What to Do Villach


Special Tours

Villach Alpine Highway * * * * *
10-mile road southwest of Villach, s (04) 242- 24-44.

This modern mountain road traverses wooded areas and contours across the rugged face of the Dobstrach massif. Marked turnouts offer breathtaking views of the Gail Valley and Julian Alps to the south. Turnout numbers 2, 5 and 6 offer particularly beautiful vistas. Near Turnout 6 is an Alpine botanical garden, open mid-June through Aug. daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. At the roadway's end, a chair lift carries hikers from 5682 ft. (1731 m)to a spot near the summit 7107 ft. (2166 m). From the lift, continue on foot, but be prepared for a high-altitude, two-hour walk. Your reward at the hike's end is a stunning panorama that includes the jewellike Carinthian lakes.

Where to Eat in Villach

Bleibergerhof *****
Moderate
Bleibergerhof. South of Villach on Route 86, Untere Fellach.
Tel: (04) 244-2205-0.
Specialties: Game, beef, veal, freshwater fish.

Reservations required. Jacket at lunch, jacket and tie at dinner. Reached by car or bus from Villach, this restaurant is a hidden delight that is considered one of the top establishments in Austria. Known for its impeccable service amid tasteful surroundings, it serves both international and Carinthian specialties. The ever-changing menu contains soups, light first courses, and a variety of meat and game dishes. The wine list offers vintages from around the world.


Postillion *****
Moderate to Expensive
Hauptplatz 26. (In the pedestrian zone.)
Tel: (04) 242-26101.
Specialties: Venison pates, stews and soups, boiled beef, schnitzels.
Credit Cards: V, MC, DC, A.
Outside dining, own baking, reservations required.

With recipes adapted from cuisine served to aristocracy in the 1800s, this hotel restaurant transports guests to another era. Famous in the region for its venison, it prepares an array of specialties dressed with cheeses, butter and cream. Those more health-conscious should consider the selections of lighter fare. In July and August, guests can be seated on the flower-filled courtyard, where piano music and candlelight create a special atmosphere.

Where to Stay in Villach

Romantik Hotel Post * * * * *
http://www.romantik-hotel.com/
Moderate
Hauptplatz 26. In the Pedestrian zone, old town.
Tel: (04) 242-26101.
Credit Cards: MC, DC, A.

Secluded garden atmosphere, sauna, balcony or patio, in-room minibars, fitness center.Once the town palace of one of the richest families in Carinthia, this hotel still retains its regal air, with vaulted ceilings, an arcaded courtyard and a baronial fireplace. The exterior is extravagantly decorated with stone columns, carvings and wrought iron. Built in 1500, the manor has played host to kings and archdukes as well as an empress. There are 76 rooms and one suite; all have elegant decor plus sitting area, satellite TV, tile or marble bath (half without tub).


Warmbaderhof *****
http://www.warmbad.at/englisch/ index.htm
Expensive
Kadischenallee. "^ Two and one-half miles south of Villach.
Tel: (04) 242-30010.
Credit Cards: V, MC, DC, A

Taking "the cure" draws many to the Warmbad-Villach area, and this 100-year-old hotel provides a comfortable retreat. Set in flowering gardens, south of Villach, the hotel has its own indoor swimming pool, housed in a large vaulted building, plus covered passageways that lead to the warm springs. Accommodations include 116 rooms and 12 suites, most in the hotel's modern wing; all are pleasantly furnished and have satellite TV, combination bath, robes. The hotel offers walking tours of the town and evening dances on its outdoors terrace. Closed one week in Dec.

Villach (Austria)

This bustling town serves as a railway junction linking Carinthia to Italy and Slovenia. Straddling the River Drau, Villach is within easy driving distance of Lake Ossiach, Spittal and Velden. In July and August, Villach hosts the Cannthian Summer Festival. Nearby Warmbad offers radon-laced thermal baths for those seeking "the cure." Situated in serene gardens in the center of Warmbad, the Warmbaderhof is the largest of the hotels in the area and exudes an air of quiet comfort.

What to Do in Carinthia

Magdalensberg *****
http://www.landesmuseum-ktn.at/ magdalensberg.htm
Category : Inexpensive
Address : Outside St. Viet an der Glan South of St. Viet, north ofKlagenfurt on
Route 83. W (04) 224- 2555.
Special Hours: Open from May through Oct.

Long before the Hapsburg Empire rose to power, Austria was a part of the vast Roman Empire. Magdalensburg is considered the oldest Roman settlement north of the Alps. Romans occupied this site the last century before Christ, and today excavations have revealed a Roman villa (complete with central heating), public baths, temples and a forum. Admission.

Neuer Plato *****
Category :Free
Address : Neuer Platz. Near the Town Hall, New Town.
Tel : (04) 63-53-72-23.

Don't miss seeing the Lindwurm, or Dragon Fountain, that dominates the square. Carved by Ulrich Vogelsang in about 1590 from a single block of grey schist, this snarling beast is the heraldic emblem of the city. The tale goes that Klagenfurt was built on a swamp favored by the dragon, and safety was finally ensured once the creature was slain.

Where to Stay in Carinthia


Hotels and Resorts


Romantik-Hotel Musil * * * * *

Category : Expensive
Address : Oktober Strasse 14. Town center, near Neuer Platz.
Tel : (04) 63-51-16-60.
Credit Cards: V, MC, DC, A.
Balcony or patio, in-room minibars.

Comments : Pricey but intimate (some say a bit dusty), this small hotel has earned its reputation, and rooms are booked months in advance. Located in the heart of town, the building features an oval courtyard with inward-facing balconies. The 16 rooms are unique, the eclectic decor includes Baroque, Biedermeier and rustic furnishings. Each has bath and TV with hookup to BBC news.

Schloss Hotel Worthersee * * * * *

Category : Inexpensive to Moderate
Address :Villacher Strasse 338. Head west from the center for 2 miles toward
Villach.
Tel : (04) 63-21158.
Credit Cards: V, MC, DC, A.
Beach location, water sports, balcony or patio.

Built as a private villa in 1845, this hotel features a tunnel that leads to a private beach and shoreline promenade on the eastern banks of Lake Worther. The yellow mansion is trimmed with ornate woodwork and has jutting towers and balconies. Inside, the 29 rooms and five suites are modern and well-ftirnished; the best views, of course, are from those overlooking the lake. The hotel has its own dinner restaurant, a bar and a cafe. Closed Jan.

Bistro Musil * * * * *

Category : Moderate
Address : Oktober Strasse 14, W (04) 63-51-16-60.
Credit Cards: V, MC, DC, A.

Dine by candlelight in this locally popular hotel where Klagenfurters come to celebrate. Owner Bernhard Musil has been named the top pastry chef in central Europe, so be sure to try out the luscious desserts and sweets. Regional favorites, such as calves' brains and venison medallions, are served along with fresh fish.

Cafe Moser Verdino * * * * *

Category : Inexpensive
Address : Domgasse 2. North of Domkirch. Located at Moser Verdino.
Tel : (04) 62-57878.
Specialties: Pastries, light meals, snacks, coffee, wine, beer.

Cafestop, own baking, reservations not accepted. Not the oldest, but certainly a favorite with residents, who stop by for espresso and dazzling pastries. This unpretentious cafe is decorated with framed lithos and filled with marble, brass accents and lots of plush, upholstered furnishings.

Strohschein's Heuriger ****

Category : Moderate
Address :Villacher Strasse 338.
Head west toward Villach. Located at Schloss
Worthersee.
Tel : (04) 63-21158.
Specialties: Lamb, fish, beef.
Credit Cards: V, MC, DC, A.
Closed: Sun.

Reservations recommended, jacket required. This formal restaurant's kitchens are supervised by the hotel's family owner, and the menu features regional dishes served with elegance and flair. The six-course fixed-price dinner is a superb way to tour the tastes of Carinthia. Desserts are extravagant and well worth the splurge.

Ratings on Hotels (in US$)
-------------------------------

Category

Very Expensive: @$300+ per night, double occupancy
Expensive: @$200+ per night, double occupancy
Moderate: @$125-$200 per night, double occupancy
Budget: @$50-$125 per night, double occupancy

Restaurants and Other Dining Establishments

Very Expensive: $150+, dinner for two not including wine or dessert
Expensive: $100+, dinner for two not including wine or dessert
Moderate: $50-$75, dinner for two not including wine or dessert
Inexpensive: $25-$50, dinner for two not including wine or dessert


Refer to the following quality chart when making your selection:

**** Extraordinary
*** Very good
** Good
* Very basic, good value

Friday, November 24, 2006

Carinthia (Austria)

Klagenfurt

This is the provincial capital of Carinthia, the region that borders Italy and Slovenia. Carinthia's sunny weather and numerous lakes make it a summer tourist center, though it seems to be visited little by North Americans. Known for its rings of streets along its former city walls (the walls were destroyed in 1809 during Napoleonic invasions), Klagenfurt lies near Lake Worther, a popular place for water sports.

Restaurants in Austria

I am providing the listings which include samplings of Restaurants in a variety of price ranges, with an emphasis on the unique or special. A night's stay at a renovated castle, cloister or former brewery will make your trip especially memorable. Throughout Austria, most prices include breakfast. During the winter, ski resorts and snow-destination hotels often include "half-board" rates in their prices. Some resort hotels require half-board when you book three days or more. Guests are provided with breakfast and either lunch or dinner in the Restaurants dining rooms. This practice is reflected in serving times at nearby nonhotel restaurants—many are not open for lunch.


Food and Drink

Each region has its specialty, with influences coming from Italy, Slovenia and Germany. Much of traditional Austrian food relies on simplicity—meat schnitzels (cutlets) are served with salads and potatoes, sometimes with soups beforehand. Tafelspitz, or boiled beef, is the most well known national specialty, although, if you are after something more unusual, you could try the Styrian specialty, bloodand- liver sausages. Game and fish are often prepared using old aristocratic recipes. The more famous Austrian chefs have taken theseold dishes and interpreted them in new exciting ways. From the most exclusive elegant dining room to the smallest stube or gasthof, there's much to enjoy.

Tip : IF YOU FIND YOURSELF TRAVELLING THROUGH THE BUCOLIC AUSTRIAN COUNTRYSIDE (OR OUTSIDE THE CITY IN ANY COUNTRY, FOR THAT MATTER), LET THE LOCALS BE YOUR CULINARY GUIDE. VERY OFTEN, THEY WILL INTRODUCE YOU TO LOCAL DELICACIES AND DISHES THAT YOU WOULD NEVER HAVE THE OPPURTUNITY TO TRY IN THE CITY.

And don't forget dessert—Austria is noted for its pastries, chocolates and cakes. Each afternoon, most citizens take a break, stopping at cafes or small sweet shops for a pastry served with coffee. Sachertorte is a staggeringly delicious, dense chocolate covered cake and is not to be missed (especially if you can get it at the Cafe Sacher in Vienna). The apple strudel is an absolute must, as is the Salzbttrger Nockerln (a souffle heaped to resemble the three mountains surrounding Salzburg). Coffee is served in any conceivable concoction; espresso lovers will believe they are in paradise.

Vineyards and breweries keep Austrians well supplied with an array of wines and beers. Klosterneuburger is perhaps the best white wine. Other choices include the popular Gumpoldskirchern and Welschrieslinjj. Red wines include Bluer, Protuffieser and Zweigelt.

In Vienna and Lower Austria, take time to visit a heuriger, or "new wine" garden. Found principally in Grinzing and other regions near the Vienna Woods, these establishments sell "new wines" made from the grapes of the current year. These full-bodied, potent wines were beloved by Joseph II. A trip to one of these family-owned taverns is a must for anyone who appreciates wines.

Of the beers, Gosser Brau is a rich brew made in Styria. It's fullbodied and fine, available in light or dark. Schwechater is tops in Vienna. Imported liquors are often exorbitantly priced,but local schnapps and fruited brandies can be found at prices that won't hit your wallet too hard. On the ski slopes, schnapps (often flavored with fruit juices or spices) warms up chilled bones. Finally, popular— especially in Vienna—bowk is a delicious summer punch made of cognac, white wine, champagne or curacao and fresh fruits, served from a bowl.

Tipping

For the waiter (the person who serves you, not the headwaiter), 5 percent extra above your total; bartender, 10 percent of the drink cost; hotel housekeeper, $5 per night; washroom attendant, $2; taxi driver, 10 percent of fare; doorman, $1; porter and bellhop, $2-$5.

Telephone

The international access code for both the United States and Canada is 001, followed by the area code and seven-digit local number. To telephone Austria, dial 43; time difference (Eastern Daylight) plus 6 hours.

Transportation in Austria

Airlines

With change sweeping away old borders throughout Europe, Austria has become an important airport hub. Since 1989, Austrian Airlines (toll-free W (800) 843-3002 http:// www.aua.com/) has offered nonstop service from New York or Chicago to Vienna. Although flight schedules vary, many U.S. carriers require passengers to change planes in London or Frankfurt.

International carriers, such as Lufthansa and British Airways, also feature extensive Austrian service. Inside Austria, its national airline provides service throughout the country, Europe and points beyond. Austrian Air Services (a subsidiary of Austrian Airlines) and Tyrolean Airways (jointly owned by the national carrier) link Austria's cities.

Trains

Comprehensive service, efficient schedules and competitive fares make train travel the hands-down choice for thousands of Austrians and visitors alike. If you don't want to drive, the trains will carry you almost anywhere in Austria, plus the schedules are designed to mesh with bus lines, cable cars, and even boat tours. Eurail Passes (http:// www.eurail.com/)are valid in Austria, and senior citizens (women over 60, men over 65) can ride at 50 percent reduction in first- or second-class. Cars and bicycles can be rented through rail agents, and returned when you're finished at a dozen Austrian stations.

Bus

Bus lines maintain service over 19,000 miles of roads, linking rail stations with outlying villages. Buses ferry passengers (plus their luggage and ski equipment) from the valley floor to the loftier ski resorts and alpine hamlets. Discounts for children are substantial.

Taxis

In the cities, taxis are designated by official seals on the taxi meters. Surcharges are to be posted in the vehicle, and supplements are charged for luggage stowed in the trunk. Set charges are the rule in many resort areas.

Driving and Roads

Austria is easily accessible by car. Main roads are hard-surfaced, and four-lane autobahns link Salzburg and Vienna, while a six-lane autobahn links Vienna with Ediltz. Mountain driving is the main challenge, with steep gradients (6 to 16 percent, or even more). Although the impressive Arlberg tunnel (nearly 9 miles long) makes it easier to reach ski destinations, even if you are an experienced alpine driver, you may want to take the train or bus to reach points at higher elevations.

Car Rental

To rent a car, present a valid driver's license, your passport—and for convenience—a major credit card. BUT YOU SHOULD KNOW THAT CAR RENTALS ARE SUBJECT TO A WHOPPING TAX, AS HIGH AS 21.2 PERCENT. In addition, you must figure in airport surcharges (6 percent for any car rented at a municipal airport). When shopping for rates, make sure you know whether the price includes all applicable taxes. Budget-Rent-A-Car, Avis, and Hertz all offer vehicles in Austria. For about $21 a day (added to the rental costs), you can purchase a "loss-damage-waiver" that allows you to waive all financial responsibility for eventual damage to your car, even if you are at fault. Drivers who pass up this coverage may be liable for up to the full value of the car in the event of an accident. Some credit cards offer loss-damage-waivers as a benefit, which could create a savings for you. The best advice is to plan your car-rental strategy well in advance.

Boats

Touring Austria by boat is a splendid way to take in the scenery. Cruising the Danube can be accomplished by luxury craft, steamship, or ferry. Enjoy a seven-day tour, a riverboat shuttle or an evening dinner cruise. Other possibilities include trips on the Rhine, the Drau, or on one of Austria's lakes. For luxury cruises on the Danube, contact Europamerica Cruises, toll-free (800) 221-4770 http://www.deilmann-cruises.com/). For excursions on Lake Constance, Tel:(05574) 42868. Lake Wolfgang and its sights are linked by the Austrian Federal Railway boat system; (06138) 2231.

Bicycles

Bicycle touring through the cities on miles of designated paths is a great way to see the country. From the beginning of April until November, you can rent bikes and procure passes to take your bike on most trains (the bikes ride in a special car). The cost is under $10 a day, with substantial reductions if you're taking the train to your destination. Rented bikes can be returned to almost any train station, simplifying the logistics.

Arts and Cultural Events in Austria

Music and Austria have been intertwined for centuries. Vienna is the birthplace of the waltz, and Salzburg is the ancestral home of Mozart. Austria's musical contributions to the world

include the vast repertoires of Schubert, Strauss, Haydn and Wagner, to name
only a few. Today the country is filled with musical festivals, from the renowned Salzburg Festival to countless music weekends held in small villages at the height of summer. Visiting Austria without sampling its music is like leaving without enjoying an apple strudel.

The Salzburg Festival runs from late July to the end of August, and celebrates Mozart, Strauss, Verdi and others. The Festival brings together a splendid array of concerts, instrumental recitals, Mozart matinees, serenades, ballet and sacred music. Virtuosi, duets and chamber music groups perform in the numerous halls and salons nearby, often with several events happening at once. But you won't get into the top concerts or operas without confirmed reservations made well in advance. Tickets for headline events sell out a year ahead. Plan ahead, too, to attend the Easter or Whitsun festivals.

For comprehensive information on the Festival, write directly the box office, Salzburg Festival, P.O. Box 140, A-5010, Salzburg, Austria, (0662) 8045 rtittp://www.salzburgfestival.com/ index2.html). Don't forget that, during Festival time, lodging Salzburg is at a premium—if you can't get hotel reservations, you might find room in the surrounding suburbs. Or try writing Salzburg tourist information office(Mozartplatz 5, Salzburg, Austria, (0662) 846568) to find accommodations with a local family.

Vienna hosts its own Festival from mid-May to June, while Bregenz has a July Festival that features performances on a gigantic floating stage on Lake Constance. Graz comes into its own during the Styrian autumn, featuring an arts festival with an avant-garde accent, while the area around Feldkirch honors Schubert with both spring and autumn festivals that draw famous performers from all across Europe. For information on these activities, consult the Austrian National Tourist Office, P.O. Box 1142, New York, NY 10108-1142, (212) 944-6880 (http: //www.austria-tourism.at/).

Outdoor Activities in Austria

Skiing, both downhill and cross-country, is synonymous with Austria. During winter, you also have your choice of ice-skating, curling and tobogganing, not to mention the romance of a horsedrawn sleigh ride. In the summer, visitors and residents alike hike, stroll, or ride on horseback or mountain bikes. Schools and instructors teach beginning and advanced techniques in almost any sport.


In Austria, challenging mountaineering treks are offered near all the major peaks, and almost every town and hamlet provides guided hikes and alpine tours. Golf and tennis are also popular. In the lake districts, trout fishing and water sports, such as swimming, sailing and windsurfing, prevail.

Austria - Europe's Charm


Austria has it all—sophistication, rustic simplicity, antiquities,
riches, excellent restaurants, music festivals, towering mountains, green valleys, flowers during the summer and world-famous snow during the long winter season.

Geographically, three-quarters of the country is covered with mountains. The Alps cut a curved swathe across Austria's face, sparing only sections in the south and eastern regions. Lush valleys flank the river courses, the most famous being the River Danube, Europe's longest. Austria's other rivers—the Inn, the 111, the Drau—as well as its many lakes also are extremely scenic.

Austria is bordered to the north by Germany, to the west by Switzerland and Liechtenstein, to the south by Italy, Slovenia (formerly part of Yugoslavia) and Hungary, and to the east by the Czech Republic. Austria itself is divided into nine regions or states:

Voralberg, Tyrol, Salzburg Land, Upper Austria, Lower Austria, Vienna, Burgenland, Styria and Carinthia.

In Austria Snow begins in late November and continues through May in the higher regions. Summer (which means from Easter to mid-October) brings warmer temperatures, with periodic rains.

High season depends on your itinerary. For skiers, peak times run from December through April. Many ski resorts and hotels close down during some or most of the warmer months. For Austria city touring, any time is fine, but beware that in July and August Salzburg is inundated
with music lovers who come each year to its famous festival. During all the major holidays (Christmas, New Year's, Easter weekend), throngs invade the cities and popular ski spots.

Off the beaten track, the smaller towns provide all the charm without the crush of people. Away from the major hubs, daily life retains its rustic rhythms, preserving old- world customs.